Santo Antão: Island of mountains in Cape Verde

Santo Antão is one of those Cape Verde islands that is a beautiful contradiction unto itself.  One of the Barlavento (windward) islands and the second largest island in the Cape Verde archipelago, the island is separated by a channel named Canal de São Vicente, from the island of São Vicente.

Santo Antão’s landscapes are diverse, with the south and west of the island looking rather barren and desolate, while the balance of the island, with its rich, subtropical climate, offers coconut palms, mango and carob trees, date palms, citrus, papaya and orange trees.

Terraces lining the sides of the mountains host a multitude of pineapples, coffee plants and manioc, growing in the black lava soil.  Acacia trees, wild figs, eucalyptus, lavender and dragon trees are to be seen on the roadsides in many areas of the island.

For beach lovers, bathing beaches and fishing areas are found in near Tarrafal de Monte Trigo, a settlement on the southwestern area of the island, 27 kilometers west of Porto Novo.

One of the towns worth visiting on Santo Antão is Ribeira Grande, nestled in a valley of the same name.  This lively town offers several guesthouses and an Internet cafe, as well as a food and clothing market, shops and restaurants and generally a vivacious air.  In the center of town can be seen the Nossa Senhora do Rosário church located in a square going by the same name.

The largest city on the island is Porto Novo, situated in the dry southeast of Santo Antão.  Of interest to explore is the main street of the city, lined with the former mansions from the colonial past, some markets and shops and a harbor.

Driving from Porto Novo to Ribeira Grande is an interesting journey through the towering rock peaks of the dry part of the island, followed by narrow mountain ridges to the north coast.  Shortly after visiting a village named Lombo de Figueira, can be seen the Cova de Paúl volcano. 

The views from the crater at the top are breathtaking.  From the plateaus nearby, on a clear day, you can see all the way to Monte Verde on the neighboring island of São Vicente.

Another interesting visit is Vila das Pombas, nestled in a protected bay on the northeast of the island.  The beach promenade is lined with pretty little houses, painted in pastel colors and behind the houses can be seen waving coconut palms and sugar cane fields.

In the extreme north of the island is Ponta do Sol, considered by some to be the loveliest town on Santo Antão,  On the promontory can be seen colorful small fishing boats and in the praça in the center of town the city hall is a large attractive colonial building.  See a street view of Ponta do Sol below:

Close by are several small guesthouses and hotels as well as restaurants and bars.  Incidentally the drive between Ponta do Sol and Ribeira Grande is a great experience, as the road runs directly along the cliffs overlooking the ocean.

A couple of suggestions for accommodation on Santo Antão include Kolina d´Sol in Ponta do Sol, a small hotel with only 11 rooms, minutes from Ponta do Sol Town Hall and close to Ponta do Sol Church.  The hotel has a restaurant and the terrace overlooks amazing sea views.

Close to Porto Novo, Pedracin Village in Boca de Coruja is a beautiful rural location to stay, 6.3 km / 3.9 mi from Ribeira Grande beach and 5.6 km / 3.5 m from Ponta do Sol.  There is a restaurant and swimming pool available for guests and a terrace with a gorgeous view of the surrounding scenery.

More hotels in the area can be viewed here.

For those wishing to see a little more of the island, the video below shows a lot of people who love Santo Antão, as well as a taste of that beautiful scenery!

Photo credits:

• Map CC-by-SA Bela-vista.net
• Coastline Santo Antão CC Konstantin Krismer
• Santo Antao street in Ribeira Grande CC-by-SA Quiebrajano
• Ponta de Sol, Santo Antão town and beach CC-by-SA As3.1415rin
• Ponta de Sol, street view CC-by-SA Quiebrajano
• Other photos in the public domain or courtesy the hotel