São Vicente: Island of culture in Cape Verde

São Vicente (Saint Vincent), is one of the Barlavento or Windward islands of Cape Verde. Situated between the island of Santo Antão, with the Canal de São Vicente separating them, and the island Santa Luzia, São Vicente is a dry but interesting island to visit. 

While mostly flat in landscape, the island is, however, dominated by the mighty Monte Verde peak (750 metres).  There are two other mountain ranges on the island, Fateixa and the Madeiral, from which excellent views can be had of the city of Mindelo and its surrounding countryside.

When the weather is really clear, it is possible to see as far as Santo Antão and even further to the uninhabited islands of Santa Lucia, Branca and Raso.  Around 80 percent of the residents live in the city of Mindelo, where most of the “action” is in São Vicente.

However, unlike the mountainous Santiago, the mountains are not green and lush as, due to the dry environment, the mountains on São Vicente consist of reddish-brown scree.  

It is thought Monte Verde (green mountain) itself probably got its name from the days when corn and green beans were grown on its slopes, as the mountain is certainly not green today.

Mindelo is a busy harbor city and for a long time had the largest and most popular harbor in the Atlantic.  While international shipping traffic now often stops off at harbors like Las Palmas or Dakar, the Porto Grande in Mindelo does still attract a fair amount of business.

The city of Mindelo itself is considered a melting pot of the various cultures living in Cape Verde and is considered the cultural center of Cape Verde. This apparently is due to the many sailors who used to come ashore in the past, looking for some entertainment.   

From this the city became the birthplace of the now internationally famous music of Cape Verde, including “morna” and “coladeira”. 

These days, while the music is still much in evidence, you are more likely to come across the more popular music of the times, as pop music takes over the young scene of the city.  It is still possible to enjoy the best of the traditional music in clubs like the Café Musique and other small restaurants and clubs.  To get in the true Cape Verde mood, the video below offers the true heart of Cape Verde, with Césaria Évora singing to us about the Carnival in São Vicente:

Due to the decline in the economy of the harbor, Mindelo is, however, also home to many street children and beggars, who live in slum conditions in the city.  

The harbor is worth a visit however, as is the Mercado de Peixe (fish market) in the city.  Mindelo has a replica of that famous tower in Lisbon, the Torre de Belém and in the Praça Nova quarter of the city, it is possible to visit an upmarket neighborhood with a plaza, surrounded by beautiful, pastel-colored villas as well as a lovely Art Nouveau pavilion. 

This area has a European air and shops and restaurants are worth a visit, as well as classic cafes on the Rua Lisboa, which has recently changed its name to Rua Libertadores d’Africa, and which is considered to be the heart and soul of Mindelo.
 

The old town has a distinctive African feel, situated right on the oceanfront with a panoramic view of Cara Mountain and is home to the Nossa Senhora da Luz church (pictured left) and well as other interesting buildings.   

Shopping is available in the Casa Benefica department store in the Praça Estrela close by and  African traders display their wares including clothing, shoes, vegetables and fruit.

Thinking sun and sand, rather than shopping, those looking for a wind-protected and quiet beach, and one which is particularly safe for children, should visit Baía das Gatas in the northeast of the island where, incidentally, a music festival is held each year during August.

Other beautiful beaches include Praia Grande and Praia do Norte, both located a little further south on the island.  However, due to heavy surf, these beaches are not suitable for swimming.  However, Praia da Ceilada at Calhau does offer safer swimming facilities.  The village itself is also a pleasant visit.

Down on the southwest of São Vicente, windsurfers will find a little heaven on Earth.  The excellent wind conditions at São Pedro beach are great for windsurfing and surfers will also enjoy Sandy Beach.  Other water sports available in the area include diving, sailing and deep-sea fishing.  There are a certain amount of boats available to charter, complete with skipper if required.

As a matter of interest, the international airport on São Vicente is located near São Pedro, but due to limited arrivals and departures at this airport, it has no real influence on the noise pollution in the area.

 As to somewhere to lay down your head, Tripadvisor clients recommend Hotel Don Paco, which is close to both Mindelo Marina and the Laginha Beach and a short distance to the beach at São Pedro.

The hotel offers a swimming pool, onsite restaurant, a bar and a pool bar.

There are also spa amenities including onsite massages and the hotel offers an area shuttle to get around the island (surcharge).

Read more about the hotel and view photos here. 

Alternatively, Hotel Oásis Porto Grande is another recommended option, close to the harbor in Mindel and the Laginha Beach. 

Hotel amenities include an outdoor pool and a fitness center, wireless Internet access (surcharge) along with a restaurant and bar lounge.  Read more about the hotel here.

Other hotels in the immediate vicinity can be browsed on this website.  Whichever way you choose to stay, you won't regret your visit to São Vicente.  Enjoy some impressions of life in the city of Mindelo below:

Photo credits:

• Santa Luzia Island, seen from Calhau, São Vicente Island, Cape Verde
• Village of São Pedro, São Vicente Island, Cape Verde
• Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Luz, São Vicente, Cabo Verde
• Building of the Alliance Française in Mindelo, Cape Verde
• All above CC-by-SA Francisco Santos

• "Monte Verde" as seen from Mindelo town in São Vicente island, Cape Verde CC-by-SA Manuel de Sousa
• Monument to the first air crossing of the South Atlantic Ocean, known as "Águia" (eagle), in Mindelo town, São Vicente island, Cape Verde and Mindelo bay and town, São Vicente island, Cape Verde - CC-by-SA Kotoviski
• Mindelo bay CC-by-SA Danielmarcos.sousalopes
• Map of São Vicente Island - Cape Verde CC-by-SA Bela-vista.net